Whether renovating an old home or just looking to freshen up your current place, refinishing hardwood floors is a great way to give a space a new look. In the article below, VINAWOOD will tell you how to refinish hardwood floors.
What is the fastest way to refinish hardwood floors?
How To Refinish Hardwood Floors? Removing an old home or just looking for a way to spruce up your current abode, refinishing hardwood floors is a great way to make a special feel brand new. When your floor needs to be made over, refinishing hardwood is a very manageable and rewarding to-do-it-yourself job that can save a lot of money. What I will mention below will be what you have to prepare for refinishing hardwood and how to do it professionally.
Tools + Materials
This is what you should buy for refinishing flooring. Typically, it may take $3 to 4$ per square foot to refinish hardwood floors. For a 2000-square-foot house, that can mean a bill as high as $8000. It’s possible to complete an entire 2000-square-foot home in as little as four days for about $700. OK, now, just follow these steps to refinish hardwood floors with a professional quality result.
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Tools
- Drum or belt sander
- Edge sander
- Screwdriver
- Hammer
- Pliers
- Chisel
- Trim pry bar
- Nail set
- Putty knife
- Floor finish applicator
- Sanding pole
- Paint tray
- Paintbrush
Materials
- Stain
- Polyurethane or oil-based finish
- Painter’s tape
- Plastic sheeting
- Sandpaper (40, 60, 80, and 220-grit)
- 120-grit sanding screen
- Shop vacuum
- Denatured alcohol
- Tack cloth
- Stain applicator pads
When your hardwood floors surface is covered in deep scratches, gouges, cracks or other surface damage, that is the time you have to refinish them. Stains from pets or leaks may necessitate a deep sanding and refinishing.
When the floor’s topcoat is worn down, the floor should be sanded, restrained and coated. Pour a little amount of water to the floor, if the floor soaks water up, the wood fibers are exposed and the floor needs refinishing. If they bead up and sit on the wood, a polish might be enough to refurbish the floors.
A Step-by-Step Guide: How to Refinish Hardwood Floors
1. Prep the Room
How to refinish hardwood floors for beginners? Take out all furniture, window treatments, and rugs. Use painter’s tape to cover vents and electrical boxes, preventing dust from entering ducts and affecting electrical work. If you’re refinishing just one room, consider sealing the doors with plastic sheeting. Gently use a pry bar to remove the base molding. You can take off the small piece of quarter-round while leaving the rest of the baseboards intact.
- Pro Tip: Use a pencil to number the molding pieces as you remove them so you can replace them correctly.
Use needle-nosed pliers to remove any nails or staples. Nail down any boards that are loose.
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2. Patch and Repair
Check the floor for larger holes or cracks and repair using wood filler and a spackle knife. For heavily damaged floors, it’s best to use a trowel filler, which is a thinner wood filler that spreads over large areas. Apply this with a large putty knife. For less damaged floors, use a wood patch filler on individual spots . Allow the filler to dry completely. Wipe down the floor with a damp rag to remove all debris and dust, and let it dry fully before sanding.
3. Sand the Floor
For this step, you’ll use a drum sander rented from a home improvement store. Working with a drum sander can be challenging — it can be hard to control and using it incorrectly can damage your floors. Ask for a quick tutorial and pointers when you rent the equipment. Then, practice sanding on a large sheet of plywood until you are comfortable. With the motor running, start moving slowly forward. Engage the sander as you are moving and disengage before you stop. Wear a respiratory mask and eye protection.
Begin sanding with 40-grit sandpaper, which is very coarse and will effectively remove scratches, dings, and the old finish, though it will leave a rough surface. Sand with the grain of the wood, working in 3- to 4-foot sections. Maintain a slow, steady pace to avoid creating permanent marks, and overlap each row by one board. Each piece of sandpaper is effective for about 20 square feet, so check it regularly and replace it when it appears worn. Also, regularly empty the dust bag on the sander for optimal performance, ensuring it stays less than half full.
Because the drum sander is large and cumbersome, you will need to use a different sander for the edges of the room. Use the same grit sandpaper on the edge sander to sand right up to the wall. Sand using the 40-grit sandpaper until the floor color is completely uniform.
Repeat the sanding process using 60, 80, and then 120-grit sandpaper on both the drum sander and the edge sander. Each round of sanding will produce a smoother surface, with all repaired holes or cracks becoming flush with the floor. Vacuum and wipe dust from the floor between each sanding step. Using the finer-grit paper will achieve the professional-quality finish you desire.
4. Buff the Floor
Buffing the floor will eliminate tiny sanding marks and provide a completely smooth finish. While some people rent an industrial floor buffer for this step, a pole sander (pictured) is also a great option. Although using a pole sander is more time-consuming, it is easier to handle and more affordable than a buffer. Attach a 120-grit sanding screen to the pole sander and buff the floor along each board, moving back and forth with the grain.
5. Prep for Sealer or Stain
At this stage, ensure your floor and room are completely clean, as any sand, hair, or small debris will affect the finish. Wipe down the walls to prevent dust from falling onto the floor while the finish dries. Thoroughly clean the floor with a shop vacuum equipped with a brush head, then use a sticky tack cloth to remove any remaining particles.
To ensure the stain penetrates the wood evenly, use a technique called “water popping.” Mix a solution of one part denatured alcohol to two parts water. Spray this solution over the floor with a pump sprayer, ensuring full coverage. Evenly distribute the solution by running a rag or mop over the floor. This process raises the wood grains, allowing them to better accept the stain. Let the floor dry for at least 30 minutes.
6. Apply Stain (Optional)
The bare floor is now ready for either stain or sealer. If you want to change the color of the wood, add a stain. Pick an oil-based stain in the color of your choice.
Ensure your area is well-ventilated and wear a respirator mask, as stain and other finishing products emit harmful vapors. Use a lambswool applicator or staining sponge. Since you removed the molding in the first step, you won’t need to cut in around the edges of the floor. Dip your sponge or rag in the stain and wring out any excess liquid. Starting from the far corner of the room and working toward the door to avoid stepping on the fresh stain, apply the stain in the direction of the grain in 3- to 4-foot sections. Avoid allowing the stain to pool on the floor, and wipe away excess stain before moving to the next area. Be careful not to let the edges dry, and pay close attention to blending the lines where each section meets with your sponge.
Once the entire floor is stained, let it dry completely (usually at least 24 hours). You may need to apply a second coat in the same manner to achieve the desired color.
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7. Seal the Floor
After the stain is dry or if you are skipping stain, finish by sealing the floor. Sealing protects the floor from water damage, dings and scratches and adds luster and shine to bring out the beauty of the wood.
Polyurethane sealer is probably the most popular hardwood sealer and is available as a water-based or oil-based product. Because polyurethane sits on top of the hardwood (it doesn’t soak in), it offers excellent protection from water and scratches and it requires minimal upkeep. It comes in a variety of finishes from glossy to matte. Make sure your space is well-ventilated and that you are wearing a respirator mask when using polyurethane, especially oil-based polyurethane.
Ensure the floor is free of hair and dust using a vacuum and tack cloth. Apply polyurethane with a smooth sponge roller, and use a paintbrush for the edges of the room if necessary. Work in small sections, following the grain of the wood. Polyurethane requires multiple coats, so let each coat dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Buff the floor between each coat using a machine buffer or a #2 fine steel wool pad. More coats generally provide better protection. Start from the far corner of the room and work toward the door to avoid trapping yourself. Allow the sealer to dry for a full 24 hours before walking on the floor and at least 72 hours before placing rugs or furniture back in the room. Adequate drying time ensures beautiful and durable floors.
There are finishing options in addition to polyurethane. Here are a few of the most popular.
- Natural Oil Finishes: One example of a natural oil finish is tung oil. While it is exceptionally eco-friendly, it offers limited protection for the floor. Oil finishes do not add sheen and require significant upkeep, needing to be reapplied regularly.
- Wax: Wax has recently become a trendy floor finish, especially popular in historic homes for its matte, natural appearance. However, it is not very durable and applying it is labor-intensive, as it must be thoroughly buffed into the wood.
Now that you have a home full of beautiful floors, keep them looking new by sweeping and mopping regularly, using furniture pads, and exercising caution with hard-soled shoes. Experts say you can refinish traditional hardwood floors up to 10 times, so with a bit of care, your floors should last (and remain beautiful) for a lifetime.
How can I refinish my hardwood floors myself?
Of course yes, DIY refinishing helps you save a pretty penny, but it does require a significant amount of time and effort. Moreover, professional services come with a higher price tag, typically ranging from $5 to $10 per square foot around our area. Weigh the pros and cons of each option to decide which is the best fit for your budget and schedule.
Do you have to sand hardwood floors before restaining?
Restoring hardwood floors without sanding can be a great way to improve the look of your home or business without the time and expense associated with traditional sanding methods. There are several advantages to refinishing hardwood floors without sanding, such as saving money, preserving the original beauty of the wood, reducing dust and debris, and improving air quality.
Sự khác biệt giữa hoàn thiện lại và tái tạo bề mặt sàn gỗ là gì?
Resurfacing wood floors entails adding a new layer of material over the existing flooring. In contrast, refinishing wood floors involves sanding down the surface and then applying a new stain or finish.
Is it worth it to refinish hardwood floors?
In short, absolutely. Refinishing hardwood floors not only provides personal satisfaction and pride in their improved appearance, but it can also increase the value of your home.
Safety Tips
Wear a dust mask or a HEPA-level N95 respirator when sanding hardwood floors, as the fine dust can cause sinus problems. Wear a HEPA N95 respirator when applying stains or topcoats that contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs), as they can cause headaches, dizziness, respiratory problems and more. Open the windows to improve ventilation.
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Above is VINAWOOD’s sharing on how to refinish hardwood floors. Hopefully this article can give you useful information about this issue.
